Jimmy Carter and Muffins

The last week went by in a whirlwind. On Easter Sunday we entered the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Our plan was to hike about 10 miles to the first shelter, as we'd heard that the Smokies were challenging and the first day is a steady uphill climb from Fontana Dam. We got to the first shelter around 2:30 in the afternoon, way sooner than we'd expected, so we made some "Linner" and started to unpack our stuff. The Ridgerunner at the shelter told us that the next few miles of hiking were pretty easy but the toughest part of the park was just after that. After a long break, we decided to push another 2.9 miles to the next shelter to make the next day's hike easier. When we got there, we realized it was only another 2.8 to the next shelter and it was only 4:30pm. We'd already eaten and since we were required to sleep in the shelters, we didn't need to pitch our tent so we just decided to push the next 2.8. 16.4 miles later, we rolled into camp, totally exhausted, but glad we had made the next day of hiking easier for ourselves.

The next day we took off, planning a reasonable 12 mile day through one of the most challenging portions of the park. We got to our shelter by 2:30pm again and heard rumors that a storm was going to be passing through the next day. We'd planned to reach Clingman's Dome the next day, but decided in a flurry that we'd hike all the way there to see it at sunset before the storm hit. So, we ended up doing another 16.4 miles, this time through the toughest section of the park, ending at the highest point on the trail. We covered three days of hiking in the course 2 days, making it to the halfway point of the park in time to zero in Gatlinburg and still exit the park within the 8 day window our permits provided us.

Gatlinburg was a riot. Some describe it as "Redneck Las Vegas" -- it reminded me of a cross between the Wisconsin Dells and Branson, Missouri. The main strip is peppered with shops and restaurants -- it was surreal to go from the remote beauty of the Smokies to this bustling tourist mecca. Some people are put off by it, but Wheels and I had a blast. We ate at a delicious BBQ joint called Bennett's, visited the local brewery, and spent the afternoon doing free tastings at the 4 moonshine distilleries on the strip. After becoming pleasantly toasted from moonshine, we sat in rocking chairs and listened to a local bluegrass band perform. It was pretty spectacular. The next day we were back on the trail. We hiked more reasonable distances for the next 3 days and we only got rained on once, which is pretty impressive for passing through one of the biggest temperate rain forests in the world.

The morning we hiked out the of the national park we were greeted by 3 different sets of trail magic -- with real Starbucks coffee, Twinkies, and a bag of apples. After 5 days without passing a gap, it was nice to see the magic again. We hiked up to Standing Bear Hostel to do a quick resupply and then head on to a campsite about 13 miles down the way. Standing Bear was crazy. It is managed by two pretty quirky fellows, Curtis and "Rockit". They showed us around the grounds, fit with roosters and chickens, farm dogs and old hiking boots converted to flower pots. We drank a few Yuenglings and enjoyed a pizza before heading on our way.

When we arrived at the campsite we'd planned to stay at, we caught wind of some epic trail magic down at the next gap, another 3.2 miles away. Wheels and I immediately packed up our bags and hightailed it to Brown Gap. We hiked a record breaking 3.2 miles of uphill in 1 hour -- it's amazing what hikers are capable of when motivated by food... We rounded the corner and a huge University of Tennessee Volunteers tent was set up in the gap, with the smell charred meat and veggies wafting through the air. We were fed a meal of steak, pork chops, salmon, zucchini squash, asparagus, roasted corn, baked potatoes and girl scout cookies. Needless to stay, I slept very well that night.

The next day, we woke up bright and early and hiked out to Max Patch -- a beautiful bald that offers a gorgeous 360 view of the surrounding countryside. We decided to push on and whipped out a 20.1 mile day -- our personal record-- allowing us to roll into Hot Springs, NC early Monday morning, just in time for a big breakfast at a local diner. We plan to zero today in Hot Springs to resupply and rest up after our big mileage days.

In town, we've reconnected with some of the folks we haven't seen since Georgia and lost track of some friends we'd been hiking with up to Fontana Dam. The weather is getting hotter and hotter and while our bodies are stronger and more resilient, the heat makes moderate hiking much more difficult. The AT actually passes straight through Hot Springs, so we're staying at an historic hostel, Elmer's Sunnybank Inn, which is this old building that was constructed in 1840. The first thru-hiker, Earl Schaffer, actually stayed at the Sunnybank Inn during his 1948 hike. It's a beautiful old home, run by Elmer, this fantastic old vegetarian chef with a dog named Jimmy Carter. There are stray cats that hang around the front porch. An orange tabby named Muffins hopped up on my lap and started purring like crazy. I sat there on the front porch petting it for a long time-- classic Catnip moment. I miss my cats....

Well that brings you up to date, until next time!

Catnip

Mission Time: 27:03:37:05

Dam Stop Before GSMNP

Nothing beats the feeling you get when you hike into a gap with road access and you catch a whiff of hot dogs, see a basket of fruit or candy and baked goods, and a happy smiling face standing behind them. Trail angels have peppered the lengths of the trail, bringing trail magic and stories of their AT experiences. Most of them are former thru-hikers or section hikers that have moved back into the area and want to give something back to the trail. A lot of work goes into their magic -- a lot of careful planning to provide for as many hikers as possible. One gentleman, "Quest", drives out almost every day with sodas, bananas and oranges -- offering hikers a ride into Robbinsville, NC to get food and resupply before heading into Smokey Mountain National Park. Another couple set up camp just past the "Fontana Hilton" (a really nice AT Shelter that was given the name due to it's scenic location on the dam, picnic tables and shower house). They offered hot dogs, cold grape soda, brownies and the most delicious homemade pound cake I've ever had in my life (the woman gave me her secret recipe, which I plan to get fat on after the trail).

It is odd that I have come to feel a greater sense of community now more than ever before at a time in my life that I've not slept in the same location more than one night. We meet fellow hikers and are instantly old pals -- commiserating over "that last big climb" or swapping stories about where we were during "that terrible storm".

Six of the twelve most challenging climbs on the Appalachian Trail occur before you reach Fontana Dam, NC. Wheels and I walked into Fontana Dam yesterday morning, so by that measure, we're already halfway done! Since leaving Georgia a week ago, the terrain has become significantly greener and the incline has been sharper. However, it feels like our bodies are getting stronger as we go- so each day has been a manageable challenge.

I am so grateful to be doing this with Wheels - sometimes I get too focused on where we are heading that I hike past the hike. Wheels is so patient with me; he stops to take pictures or convince me to climb up an abandoned tower to see a remarkable view.

Today we enter the Great Smoky Mountain National Park home to Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the trail. It's technically all downhill from there :-)

Until next time, this is Catnip signing out.

Mission time 18:00:04

...And miles to go before I sleep...

Catnip's Daily Schedule:

7:00am:Wake up.
7:15am: Pack up sleeping bag.
7:30am: Take down the tent.
7:45am: Collect and boil water for breakfast.
8:00am: Eat.
8:15am: Clean and pack up mess kit.
8:20am: Put on backpack.
8:21am: Grab trekking poles.
8:25am: Walk.
12:00pm: Walk more.
3:00pm: Keep walking.
4:15pm: Take off backpack.
4:30pm: Set up tent.
5:00pm Collect water to filter and boil.
5:30pm: Wait for Wheels to cook dinner.
6:00pm Eat.
7:00pm Sleep

Before the AT, the longest backpacking trip I'd ever been on was three days. I couldn't imagine what it would feel like to spend one week camping, but here we are on day 13. This schedule feels natural to me now. We reached the 100 mile marker on the AT Sunday morning before heading into Franklin, NC for a resupply. I thought I would enjoy sleeping in a little bit this morning but, like clockwork, I woke up at 7:04am, ready to hit the trail. I am constantly amazed at how my body and mind are adapting to this new way of life. Just one afternoon in town is enough to rejuvenate me and then suddenly, I'm itching to hike again.

Earlier this week, we stopped in Hiawassee, GA and stayed at the Top of Georgia Hostel. It wasn't in any of the AT guides, the owner, Bob (aka Sir Packs-A-Lot) goes fishing for hikers at Dicks Creek Gap with a big sign on his van that says "1/2 miles to TOG Hostel". A free ride was all it took to convince us to stop there instead of hitching to Blueberry Patch Hostel, which was the original plan. The hostel was a brand new home, converted to a hiker haven, sitting on top of a hill that's back porch overlooked the most beautiful Georgia sunset. The front porch was fit with rocking chairs and Bob provided hikers with scrubs to wear while he and his staff did loads of stinky hiker laundry. Wheels and I enjoyed a handful of Skittles on the front porch while listening to the sweet bluegrass melodies that emanated from the tiny outfitter attached to the bunk rooms.

When we walked into the hostel, Bob pointed out a red "Easy" button to the left of the front door, "You just finished Georgia, go ahead and hit the 'Easy' button." Wheels and I exchanged exasperated glances. Easy? That was anything but easy.... According to Bob, the mountains leading up to Smokies are like a ramp, when you get to the Smokies, it's a vertical.

It has almost been 2 full weeks out here. We've encountered countless trail angels and trail magic. On a scale map of the AT we've only moved about an inch, but already we have met the most interesting people and learned so much about ourselves- I can only imagine what the next 2,076 will bring.

To Helen Back

Day 5 of our thru-hike and Wheels and I are in Helen, GA at a Best Western. We'd planned to stay at Low Gap Shelter but caught wind of a bad storm moving through the area. At low elevation, with 50mph winds and flash flood warnings,we were at risk of sleeping in our tent under standing water and ruining our gear.

Luckily, when we stopped for breakfast after a 6.5 mile hike from Neels Gap, a friendly stranger offered to drive us out to Helen from Hogpen Gap. It was a fantastic moment of trail magic.

So we've spent the afternoon roaming around this cute Germantown filled with beer gardens and schnitzel, waiting for the storm to pass.

After the first few days, we are finally starting to "get our legs" but it has been anything but easy. By Neels gap nearly 15% of aspiring thru-hikers drop out, so we are still very much in the game. Tomorrow we've got a taxi coming to take us back to Hogpen where we'll hike 11.9 miles in the rain to Blue Mountain shelter.

We took a few short videos throughout the last few days, check them out below!

-Catnip and Wheels
Mission time: 04:09:49:41

Catnip and Wheels summit Springer Mountain:
http://youtu.be/ojzsBLPH9ys

Catnip and Wheels - Day 2, AT'14:
http://youtu.be/sTIsWJTK5dI

Catnip and Wheels summit Blood Mountain:
http://youtu.be/IKjE8nV5fY8

Bumpy Roads, Braised Beef, and Beer

From henceforth I will be referring to myself by my trailname, Catnip, and Robb will be Wheels.

I am sitting in the lobby of the Amicalola Falls Lodge in Dawsonville, GA. It is just past 6am, the morning of our first day on the trail. We arrived around 6pm yesterday after following a very, very stupid Google Maps bypass option that ended up taking us an hour up a rocky dirt road that nearly tore the bottom off of Wheels' parent's sedan. But with Wheels' skilled driving, we made it back to the main road and got to the State Park only an hour later to enjoy the braised beef buffet and a few choice local brews.

Wheels and I made a final gear inventory and reloaded our packs.  Thrice.  Each time there was some new discovery regarding what gear can be shoved into a different compartment to make the system a little more manageable.  Each time we figured "eh, we probably won't need that."

Internet connection at the Lodge is spotty at best, but I guess it's merely a preview of what's the come. We took a short video which I will try to upload but we are planning to hit the trail in roughly 25 minutes so I can only do as much as time allows.

With the nervous excitement that I can only compare to the morning of a marathon, I'm Catnip, signing out.

Catnip & Wheels
Mission Time: -00d:00h:20m:32s